Art has produced jewelry from the 1940s to the late 1960s. The style of the designs comprises among others influence from the Renaissance, Victorian and Art Deco period. Often leaf, flower and fruit designs were used. Characteristic are the use of filigree, enamel, molded and sculpted plastics and rhinestones. Art has been discovered by collectors recently, prices are going up consequently.
Marcel Boucher, originally a French designer, learned the trade with Cartier and founded is own business after his emigration to the USA in the 1920s. In 1972 his company was taken over and nowadays there is no production under this name anymore. Boucher not only signed is designs but also numbered them. Especially the whimsical three dimensional designs like birds, insects, flowers and leaves are much sought after by collectors.
Coco Chanel opened up her first couture house in 1914 in Paris, financed by one of her rich 'lovers'. She offered her clients the opportunity to accessorize all her clothing designs with shoes, hats, bags and jewelry in one go. In the 1930s she works with film producer Goldwyn and designs for movie stars like Katherine Hepburn, Grace kelly and Liz Taylor. In the 1960s Robert Goossens becomes her head jewelry designer. The signature color combination for Chanel is green-red. Her style further distinguishes itself by simple elegance and jewelry of big, robust size. She is known for her faux pearl and gold tone necklaces, the poured glass designs executed by Maison Gripoix and the Maltese Cross bracelets designed by Verdura. After her death in 1971 jewelry has been designed in her style up to 1983.
Not much is known about Claudette. The name Claudette has been owned by the Premier Jewelry Company in New York. They have used the brand in 1945 for the first. When studying jewelry with the name Claudette there are three kinds of designs to be distinguished. The first is a big, colorful kind of design, often with Japanned setting, that reminds of Juliana. The earrings are often signed with a curved signature in capitals on the clips. The brooches are not signed. Necklaces can be marked and unmarked; the bracelets that are known to be Claudette are not signed. The second kind is a some what tuned down kind of design with smaller antiquй gold tone designs. The earrings are always marked, brooches are not. Bracelets and necklaces are hard to identify, because they also are not marked. The third kind is a thermoset plastic kind of Claudettes, that is reminiscent of the Lisner designs. These designs are easy to find in nowadays market, often in full parures at a time. They are the least interesting designs of the three.
Coro was founded in 1901 by Emanuel Cohn and Carl Rosenberg. In 1919 the mark Coro is used first. In 1924 Coro’s most famous designer Adolph Katz – who also makes the signature Duette designs - joins the company. Coro has used many signatures over the years. In 1937 the signature Coro Craft, later Corocraft, is introduced for the top end designs. Vendфme is another high-end line of Coro and is introduced in 1944. In 1979 production was discontinued.
Christian Dior is one of the most well known couture designers of our times. He also made costume jewelry to complement his creations on the runway. Dior started his carrier in the mid 1930s as designer for other fashion houses. He founded is own Maison Dior in 1946. Unlike many of his collegues, that designed accessories that did not distract from their clothes, Dior designed jewelry as an integral part of his collections. To safe guard the quality of his costume jewelry, he only hired well known designers. For instance Kramer of New York designed for Dior in the 1950s to cater to the American market. Stylistically the jewelry of Dior is known for the use of unusual plastics and stones. Their color and shape were deliberately artificial by look and visually very attractive. The aurora borealis rhinestones, that he designed in collaboration with Swarovski in 1955, are used in many of his designs. Most Dior pieces are signed and dated. Since 1958 his jewelry is signed with an oval plaque in which the name Christian Dior is engraved. After is sudden death in 1957 Dior costume jewelry has still been designed in his spirit for decades.
Eisenberg Original was founded in 1914 and was initially a company that design fashion. In 1930 they started making brooches to go with their clothes and soon the brooches became so popular that they decided to sell them separately. The company still flourishes, now under the name Eisenberg Ice. They are known for their big, classical designes that are hard to distinguish from the real thing and their use of Swarovski stones. The pieces made between 1930-1945 are signed Eisenberg Original, after that Eisenberg Ice. Especially the early, figurals from the 1940s are very sought after.
Florenza was founded by Daniel Kasoff in New York in 1940s and produced untill 1981. Apart from costume jewelry Florenza also made enamelled and rhinestone encrusted boxes and picture frames. Many pieces are made in Renaissance and Victorian style. Typical materials and style tell tales are the use of antiqued gold tone, enamel, cameos, frosted and AB stones.
Germany, West-Germany jewelry has been imported in the 1950s in the USA and many different styles entered the market. One of the most popular styles has big rhinestones or faux pearls in the center surrounded by filigree or open work gold tone decoration. The chains often have worked links of similar filigree or open work metal and have faux pearls adorn them. The jewelry of this make is undervalued in todays market.
Hubert de Givenchy is known for his haute couture. He has also, like Christian Dior and other fashion designers, made jewelry to complement his creations on the runway. The house of Givenchy was opened in 1952 in Paris and was most influential in the 1950s and 1960s. Givenchy’s jewelry has a classical design, often using gold plating, lucite and other plastics.
HAR is one of the companies of which the history is least known. The only thing experts agree on is that judging from the designs HAR most likely produced from the early 1950s (possibly even the late 1940s) to half ways the 1960s. This has contributed to the popularity of its jewelry greatly. Especially the signature pieces with Oriental motifs, like the dragons, snakes and genies are very much sought after. Of these the snake design is most expensive. Collectors are willing to pay thousands of dollars for it. In HAR designs often enamelling is used, as well as fantasy stones like lava rocks, but also rhinestone and pearl designs are found.
William Hobй, originally a French designer, starts to sell theatre jewelry in the USA in the early 1920s. Mid 1920s Florence Ziegfeld commissions costumes and jewelry for his Ziegfeld Follies on Broadway with him and the phrase ‘costume jewelry’ was coined. In 1927 Hobй founds his own company. In the 1950s he designs a lot of jewelry for Hollywood starts like Bette Davis and Ava Gardner. Hobй is still in production.
Hollycraft is as of 1948 the brand the Hollywood Jewelry Manufacturing Company uses, that was founded 10 years earlier by Joseph Chorbagian. The style is characterized by use of pastel colors, rhinestones and antiquй gold tone. The designs are like Florenza and Regency inspired by the Victorian period. From 1950 onwards the designs are dated and carry the letters COPR; this way Hollycraft jewelry is dated easily. The company closed its doors in the mid 1970s.
Jomaz is short for Joseph Mazer and Joseph Mazer is one of the Mazer Brothers. Originally from Russia the family emigrated to America in the 1920s. In 1927 the two youngest brothers, Joseph en Lincoln, - encouraged by Marcel Boucher, who was impressed by their designs - started their own company in New York, first in shoe buckles and later in costume jewelry. They produced for the mid-price market and in a wide variety of styles. In 1950 the brothers separated and Joseph Mazer started his own company. The signature Jomaz was one of two signatures he used from 1950 until 1970, when the company closed its doors.
Joseff of Hollywood has produced jewelry especially for film productions in the 1930s through the 1960s, that had a mattй finish to keep them from shimmer under the stage lights. The gold tone variety of this is called Russian gold. Films that feature his jewelry are e.g. Gone wit the Wind (1939), Casablanca (1942), Singing in the Rain (1952), Ben Hur (1959), Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961) and Cleopatra (1963). Film stars that wore his jewelry are e.g. Greta Garbo, Vivien Leigh, Grace Kelly and Liz Taylor.
On Juliana there is hardly any direct information in the books of reference. What is clear is that the designers DeLizza and Elster made the Juliana designs. This line of jewelry was produces in 1963-64. Next to that they have produced their other D&E designs from 1947 to 1990. Many other and famous designer houses – like Kramer, Weiss and others – have bought jewelry from these designers for their own collections. Juliana/D&E designs are not signed. They carried paper tags when were newly sold. To distinguish a Juliana from other designs, a few guide lines. Juliana pieces typically have elaborate rhinestone designs with unfoiled, open backed stones in many different cuts, usually chaton, cushion and navette. But closed backed designs and other cuts, like baguettes are also known, be it less frequent. The stones are most often prong set. The bracelets typically have five oval links at the back. Sometimes necklaces and earrings also have the link at the back. Because of recent contacts with mister Frank DeLizza I have my Juliana/D&E jewelry authenticated.
KJL, Kenneth Jay Lane started his carrier as a shoe designer. He started his own company as a jewelry designer in 1963 in New York and since then has found his clients among first ladies, royalty and movie starts. In the 1980s he designs jewelry for Avon, amongst which are the Couture Collection and the Midnight Rose Collection. His designs stand out because of their originality, bravura and unusual combinations of color and materials. He finds his inspiration in mythology, astrology and nature. He is still in business.
Kramer Jewelry Creations was founded in New York in 1943 and produced until the late 1970s. In the early 1950s Kramer designed for Dior. The more extravagant designs, especially the parures, are sought after by collectors. The high end designs are signed Kramer of New York.
Lisner produced from 1904 to 1979 and flourishes mostly in the 1950s. In the 1930s Lisner is the American dealer for Schiaparelli. The Lisner signature in block, is used for the first time in those years. In 1938 a Lisner signature in script is introduced. From the 1960s most pieces are signed with Lisner in block with an elongated L.
Matisse, subsidiary of Renoir of California that was founded in 1946 by Jerry Fels, specialized from 1952 onwards in the enamelled version of his red copper designs, that were already sold earlier under the name Renoir. Both Matisse and Renoir jewelry was made until 1964, when Fels retired and left for Florida. At first Matisse was a separate firm, but after some time it became part of the Renoir company. This can also be found in the signatures used. The geometrically shaped jewelry is the highest in price. His style is very characteristic. Once you have seen his jewelry you will recognize it anywhere.
Monet was founded by the Chernow brothers in 1929. In 1940s Monet was one of the leading jewelry designers. The style is characterized by simple, classical designs in silver and gold tone. Monet has pioneered in the field of comfort clips on earrings. Monet also introduced as one of the first a signature on its jewelry. All jewelry is signed at the back. In the 1980s Monet designed jewelry for Yves St. Laurent. Monet is still in production. The present jewelry lines are sold in the Netherlands by Bijenkorf. Monet is not widely collected yet and is therefore under valued in todays market. Every collection should contain a Monet because of the durability of the materials and the modernity of the designs, that were ahead of their time.
Oscar de la Renta is one of the fashion designers that also made jewelry to complement his creations on the runway. After short internships in Europe in the 1950s, he lived a large part of his life in America and worked for Elizabeth Arden in New York. In 1993 he came back to Europe. He dresses the rich and beautiful, American ladies from well-to-do backgrounds, that he surrounds himself with.
Pauline Rader, daughter of jewelry designer, started designing jewelry in 1963. She never made the same fame and name for herself as did e.g. Kenneth Jay Lane and Hattie Carnegie, where as her jewelry is of the same quality and originality. One reason for that is that she never produced for the mass market. She has designed mostly for private customers and exclusive boutiques. She took her inspiration from her studies of the antique world and her world travels.
Christopher Radko is one of the new designers that have come up in recent years. In 1986 he started making glass ornament designs for Christmas, but nowadays he also makes decorations for other holidays and occasions – New Year, Valentine's Day, St. Patrick's, Halloween, births, weddings, etc. – next to that he also designed a jewelry line. His designs stand out by the high quality of the materials used and the crafty way of producing. The jewels in Enchantiques' collection are so called 'retired lines', that is to say that they are no longer produced or for sale in regular stores.
About Regency not much else is known then that it was made between the 1950s and 1970s by Regina Novelty Co. in New York, owned by the Polowitz family. The most well known jewel Regency made is the rhinestone encrusted butterfly in different color combinations. Also floral and foliage motifs were used often. All of their jewelry stands out because of their high class, prong set rhinestones in beautiful color combinations.
Robert is the trademark of the Fashion Jewelry Company, founded in 1942 in New York, which changed its name to Robert Originals in 1960. Motifs most often used are usually taken from nature and remind of Art Nouveau jewelry with faux pearls, colored glass and crystal rhinestones set in vermeil filigree metal. The signatures differ, most well known is Original by Robert, which was used from 1942 to 1979, when the company closed its doors.
Sarah Coventry was founded in 1949. The jewels of SC were sold at so called 'home parties', like tupperware did. SC did not design jewelry, but bought designs from other designers and had them manufactured by jewelers. A lot of their designs carry fancy names that are known even today, like Placid Beauty, Enchanted Forest, Alaskan Summer, etc. Especially the limited editions Hostess sets are pricy in nowadays market. The signatures vary from Lady Coventry, Coventry, SC, to Sarah Cov. In 1984 Sarah Coventry ended production.
Elsa Schiaparelli founded her first couture company in the 1920s in Paris. She becomes the rival of Coco Chanel and befriends Dadaists and Surrealists like Salvador Dali. These artists influence her designs. In 1936 introduces her 'Shocking Pink' collection. This becomes her signature color. In 1940 she flees the war in Europe and moves to New York. In 1945 she returns to Paris and trains upcoming fashion designers, like Hubert de Givenchy. In 1949 DeRosa licenses her to make their jewelry in America and in 1954 she also relocates her fashion company to New York and concentrates on designing costume jewelry. In the late 1950s the production of her jewelry comes to an end.
Francisco Tortolani, born in Italy, produced costume jewelry from the 1950s till 1976. He casts his pieces in pewter, polishes them by hand, gives them a gold or silver tone finish and signs them at the back. Originals by Tortolani are worth a great deal of money. The Zodiac pieces are most noteworthy.
Trifari was founded in 1910 by Gustavo Trifari. In 1918 and 1925 respectively Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel join the company and the name becomes TKF. This signature is used in those years. In 1930 Alfred Philippe joins the company as head designer and Trifari becomes the second largest manufacturer of costume jewelry in the USA. The designs of Alfred Philippe are the most sought after and most expensive pieces made by Trifari. In 1954 Trifari wins a law suite against Coro and fashion jewelry is made into copyrighted art work ever since. After that costume jewelry may carry a copyright symbol. In 1994 Trifari is taken over by the Monet group, which is bought by Liz Claiborne in 2000. To this day jewelry is made carrying the signature Trifari.
Weiss was founded in 1942 by Albert Weiss in New York. From 1943 onwards, his jewelry is signed with Weiss in block or script. Other signatures are Albert Weiss, Weiss N.Y., AW Co. Where in the latter the W looks like a crown. The hay days of Weiss are the 1950s. In 1971 the company closes its doors.
Whiting & Davis was founded in 1876 in Massachusetts and is most known for it gold and silver tone mesh designs. From 1907 onwards there are Victorian and Art Nouveau influences to be found in the designs.
Yves St. Laurent is known for his haute couture. Like many fashion designers he has designed also jewelry to complement his creations on the runway. Christian Dior protйgй Yves St. Laurent opened his own fashion house in 1961. His style ranges from 'beatnik' chique to exotic and refined. His jewelry, introduced in the 1970s, is theatrical and colorful.
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